Say koh-SHEET-seh! Evidence of human activity has been found here from the end of the Paleolithic era. It has never been very large, but it has been an important stop on trade routes between Poland and Hungary. In 1369 it became the first town in Europe to be granted its own coat of arms, and the largest cathedral in the Kingdom of Hungary, to which it belonged through most of its written history. Following World War I, Czechoslovakia was established from the break-up of Austria-Hungary, and in December 1992, Slovakia separated itself to become its own republic.

Slovakia’s second largest city is much, much smaller than Hungary’s capital. Our pace can slow down significantly here, and we may not stick to the proposed itineraries. Košice has few tourist attractions, but its primary appeal is its pleasant main street (Hlavná), lined with fountains, historic buildings, and restaurants. It has the romance and charm of an old medieval European city centre, without the price tag. One of the best things to do here is find a seat by the singing fountain or at one of the restaurants along the main street and just watch people and listen to the ambient hum.